36° 37' 15.9" N 105° 23' 43.1" W

Route Type: Loop

Distance: 17.3 miles

Elevation Gain: 4078 ft

Max Elevation: 13163 ft

Trailhead: USFS Forest Road 58

Permits Required: No

Recommended Duration: 3 days/2 nights

Post-Hike Beer: Red River Brewing Contagion Sour

The Hike:

Backpacking to the summit of Wheeler Peak (the highest peak in New Mexico) via the East Loop Approach is a challenging but rewarding experience with over 4000 ft of elevation gain, spread across 17 miles of trails.

Logistics:

The closest towns to the trailhead are Taos, NM (~1 hour) and the small ski town of Red River, NM (~15 mins). Both towns have outdoor supplies and groceries available, although Taos has many more options and with more affordable prices. The trailhead for this hike is technically at the Middle Fork Lake Trailhead, however the 1 mile road (USFS Forest Road 58) leading to the trailhead is very rough and is only recommended for high clearance vehicles. At the junction of NM-578 and USFS Forest Road 58 there is plenty of parking available for vehicles that don’t have the capability to reach the trailhead. This guide follows the route from the parking area at the junction rather than the Middle Fork Lake Trailhead.

This hike lies within the Carson National Forest/Wheeler Peak Wilderness and there are no permits required for backcountry camping. There are many established campsites that are available.

Breakdown

Day 1 (~3.3 miles)

From the town of Red River you will travel along NM-578 for 7 miles until you reach the junction with USFS Forest Service Road 58 which provides plenty of parking areas alongside the road. To reach the Middle Fork Lake Trailhead, simply follow the gently sloping road for 1 mile as you parallel the Middle Fork of the Red River. Continue past the gate at the parking area and follow the gravel road for a short distance (0.25 mi) before turning left and crossing a small footbridge. From here you will begin a moderate climb for 1.1 mi as you make your way to the split with Lost Lake Trail #91 where you will be greeted with a small waterfall. The ascent towards Middle Fork Lake picks up in the next section as you wind through several switchbacks and cover the final 1 mi of hiking. Cresting the top of the climb you will see a vault restroom (poor condition) to the right along with a couple of camping areas. It is recommended to camp near the eastern side of the lake as the social trail for day 2 starts in this area. The eastern side of the lake is also a great place to watch the sunset as the last light disappears behind the peaks. Be sure to get plenty of rest as the next day is by far the most difficult.

Note: It may be a good idea to locate the beginning of the social trail in preparation for the start of day 2 in advance. The trail begins adjacent to a camping area up a slight hill to the left after crossing the small outlet stream on the eastern bank. The social trail should be well marked with a red blaze.

Day 2 (~8 miles)

After locating the social trail (marked with red blazes) you will begin your climb towards the junction with Wheeler Peak Trail #90. Over the course of 1.5 mi you will gain 884 ft of elevation as you blast directly uphill (no switchbacks here) through a lush pine forest. The social trail is well marked with red blazes but is not maintained. There are a lot of downed trees across the trail, many of which require scrambling over or diverting around. The trail roughly follows a stream which has a few small waterfalls and it is recommended to fill up on water if you have not already done so (this is the last chance for water until you reach Horseshoe lake).

At the end of the climb you will reach the junction with Wheeler Peak Trail #90. You will immediately begin a few switchbacks (0.50 mi) that will take you up above the treeline and into the La Cal Basin. This section of the climb is all above the treeline and provides spectacular alpine views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. For the next 1.2 mi you will travel along a windswept plain featuring some very long switchbacks that seem to never end. Take it easy on this section as you gain nearly 1000 ft in elevation. At the end of this section you will be treated to a nice overlook view of Horseshoe Lake in the valley below (if you look closely you can see the trail you’ll be taking down later). Continuing for another 0.50 mi, with a very short and steep section, will take you to the summit of Mt. Walter at 13111 ft. From here it is just another 0.50 mi to the summit of the highest peak in New Mexico, Wheeler Peak at 13163 ft. At the summit you will be treated to incredible views in all directions and one of the most scenic lunch spots in existence.

After enjoying your lunch with a view you will backtrack slightly until you reach a trail to the right that begins to immediately descend into the valley below. After 0.50 mi you will reach a split in the trail. Make the sharp left hand turn to join Lost Lake Trail #91 and enjoy a smooth and easy descent for 1 mi while taking in views of the valley below. Next, you will encounter a short series of descending switchbacks which are pretty rocky and provide poor footing. After 0.50 mi you will arrive at Horseshoe Lake. There are a couple of campsites available here, however, it is recommended to continue on to Lost Lake where there are more and better options available. Departing from Horseshoe Lake you will descend some more as you dip back into the forest along some smooth switchbacks. There is a brief section that is slightly uphill as you arrive at Lost Lake, 1.8 mi after your departure from Horseshoe Lake.

Note: There are many campsites in the vicinity of Lost Lake, however, we decided to complete the remainder of the trail in the same day and did not spend a second night. Burgers and beers were calling!

Day 3 (~6.0 miles)

Departing from Lost Lake will leave ~6 miles of hiking to reach the end. After leaving your lakeside campground there is a small uphill section before the trail begins to descend through pine forests. After hiking for 1.8 miles you will begin a series of moderately long descending switchbacks which progressively get shorter and steeper before reaching the junction with the Middle Fork Lake Trail and the waterfall you passed on Day 1. From here, it is 1.1 miles to the parking area or 2.1 miles to the end of USFS Forest Service Road 58.

Best Time to Go:

The best time to summit Wheeler Peak via the East Loop approach is June-October. Before June the trails will be impassable due to snow. It is important to check the trail conditions in the early season in order to avoid trail closures or impassable terrain.

Good to Know:

Water

Water can be obtained at any of the 3 lakes (Middle Fork Lake, Horseshoe Lake, Lost Lake) and from their tributary streams. It is important to fill up completely on water at Middle Fork Lake or the small stream that parallels the social trail on the ascent towards Wheeler Peak Trail #90. After joining this trail there is no water available until you reach Horseshoe Lake (~6 miles). This stretch is completely above the treeline with no shade available and includes the most significant elevation gain (You’re going to the summit!)

All water should be filtered or purified before consumption.

Campsites

There are established campsites that should be utilized at various points along the route. It is recommended to stay at Middle Fork Lake on Day 1 and at Lost Lake on Day 2. Always use an established campsite and practice Leave No Trace principles as this is a sensitive alpine ecosystem.

Altitude Sickness

This hike takes place at significant elevation and summits the highest peak in New Mexico at 13136 ft. It is important to be properly acclimated in order to avoid altitude sickness.