36° 09' 33.5" N 112° 42' 33.1" W

Route Type: Out and Back

Distance: 26+ miles

Elevation Gain: ~2500 ft

Max Elevation: 5187 ft

Trailhead: Havasupai Trailhead, Supai AZ

Permits Required: Yes

Recommended Duration: 4 days/3 nights

Post-Hike Beer: Dark Sky Brewing Mountains of Mosaic

The Hike:

Getting to Havasu Falls requires a hike of approximately 10 miles into a secluded and remote canyon. The hike requires permits that allow you to camp at the campground for 4 days/3 nights and is an out and back route. From the campground there are several day hikes to the different major waterfalls that dot the canyon. The hike out of the canyon is all uphill, with the last 0.50 miles being very steep switchbacks.

Logistics:

Havasu Falls is strictly on a reservation basis and requires the purchase of a permit from the Havasupai Tribe well in advance of your intended start date. Reservations must be made online through the Havasupai Reservations Website. The permits are released for sale for the upcoming year on February 1st and sell out quickly, especially for popular dates. It’s recommended to create an account with all required information included in your profile in advance of the scheduled release of permits or the permits may be sold out before you complete registration. In order to increase your chances of securing a permit it is best to have a smaller group (or go solo) and be flexible with your hiking start date.

If you are traveling from out of state, the nearest airports are Las Vegas (3 hours 40 mins) and Phoenix (4 hours 20 mins). I opted for flying into Phoenix and then staying at a campground for 1 night near Sedona before staying in Williams, AZ the night before starting the hike.

• Important Info: You MUST check-in with a printed copy of your resevation confirmation at the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn before starting your hike. You can check-in 24 hours in advance of the start date on your permit between 6am-7pm. You can also check-in the day you start your hike but it is strongly recommended that you check-in the day before so you can start your hike early on your permit start date. Grand Canyon Caverns Inn is just over an hour away from the trailhead which means the earliest you could start your hike with a day of check-in would be 7:30-8am. In the summer months this would lead to hiking in significant heat and with limited shade. There is no water available on the trail until you reach Supai Village (~8 miles).

The trailhead for the hike to Havasu Falls is very remote and requires significant driving time. There is no camping allowed at the trailhead so it’s important to leave early in the morning so that you can start your hike before sunrise. In the cooler months it may not be necessary to start hiking before sunrise but it is imperative to start early in the summer months as the heat will be extreme.

The closest towns to the trailhead are Seligman, AZ (1 hour 30 mins) and Peach Springs, AZ (1 hour 15 mins). Both of these towns are very small and the lodging options are not the best (Seligman has the most options). I opted to stay in Williams, AZ the night before starting the hike as there are more lodging options and a grocery store. The drive from Williams to the trailhead is ~2 hours.

Whichever option you choose you will be driving along Route 66 as you head to the trailhead. You will turn directly onto Indian Road 18 off of Route 66 and from here it is a 60 mile drive (~1 hour) across the Hualapai and Havasupai Reservations. The parking lot at the trailhead is usually full but there is plenty of parking along the road.

Breakdown

Day 0

It’s important that you complete the required check-in the day before your permit start date at Grand Canyon Caverns Inn. You must bring a printed copy of your reservation confirmation and a photo ID to show at check-in before receiving permits, wristbands and tent tags. The Trip Leader (the person who made the reservation) is the only one required to complete the check-in process.

Day 1 Havasu and Navajo Falls (~12 miles)

Be sure to take into consideration your driving time to the trailhead when planning your departure time so that you can get an early start for the hike in to Havasu Falls. The drive along Indian Road 18, across the Hualapai and Havasupai Reservations, is remote and there is limited phone reception. In the predawn hours there’s the potential for wildlife crossing the road so it’s important to stay alert. There are deer and elk that may be near the roads, but there are also cows that roam freely in certain areas and will sometimes stand in the middle of the road.

Once you have found a parking spot in the lot, or along the road, the hike begins next to a set of restrooms and a baggage drop location for the mules. At the top of the trailhead you can look out to the vast openness of the canyon below, where you will shortly begin descending towards. The trail starts to immediately (and steeply) descend along switchbacks and long straight descents. If you started before sunrise it’s important to use a headlamp as there are steep drop-offs and loose rocks. After winding down the cliffside for 1.5 miles you will begin to enter the canyon and encounter much gentler declines in elevation. The hike continues in this fashion with the cliff walls getting more narrow and taller the further you make your way in.

• Important Info: There will be trains of mules operating in the canyon carrying the baggage of those who opted to not pack in their own supplies. It’s important to yield the right of way to the mule trains and to stay clear of their path.

After hiking ~7 miles you will come across a sign for Supai village and make a left turn on the trail which will take you towards the village. Hiking for another half mile will take you to the bridge across Supai Creek where the trail turns to a dirt road. Follow the signs through the village and follow all the posted rules (no photography, stay on the main trail, etc.). After 0.7 miles you will enter the heart of the village and pass the cafe, store and lodge. Once leaving the village you will transition back to a trail which will take you the rest of the way to the campground. After 1 mile of hiking along this trail you will find a small side trail that will take you down to Navajo Falls. It’s recommended to continue on to the campground before visiting these falls so that you can secure a good campsite. After passing the trail to Navajo Falls, the path begins to descend more steeply. You will eventually come across a wide flat area where the mules drop the luggage. Adjacent to this area is a flimsy wooden bridge that crosses Havasu Creek. Continuing for another half mile will bring you to the top of Havasu Falls and your first glimpse at the renowned waterfalls of Havasupai. A quick but steep descent from the top of the falls will bring you to the entrance of the campground. Once in the campground its first come first served for the campsites.

If you aren’t able to find a campsite that you like on your arrival day, don’t worry! There are hikers departing early in the morning every day to hike out of the canyon, opening up many new campsites each morning. Keep your eyes peeled in the morning and simply move your gear to a more desirable and unoccupied site.

Once you have selected and set up camp you can start to enjoy the falls! From the campground its a short walk up a slight incline to get to Havasu Falls. As you go up the trail from the campground and towards Supai village you will come across several side trails diverting to the left. Most of these trails will eventually lead you to the path down to Havasu Falls, however, the most direct route is the last side trail on the left. Taking the side trail will bring you to a large relatively flat plateau that overlooks the Havasu Falls basin. From there simply follow the path down a short and steep section to enter into the basin.

It’s worth it to also check off Navajo Falls on your first day as well. From the side trail down to Havasu Falls it’s ~1.5 miles round-trip to Navajo Falls. From Havasu Falls, follow the trail back up the steep incline to the top of the falls and past the frybread stand. Continue making your way back uphill for 0.75 miles until you reach a set of side trails to your right. Take the trails down a short distance and you will come across a flat area with a few pools of cascading water where other hikers will likely be swimming. This is the top of Navajo Falls. Looking to your right you’ll see a small turquoise colored signed pointing the way for Navajo Falls. A flash flood in 2023 made the trail a bit rough getting down to the falls, but its worth the effort. Retrace your route back to your campsite and enjoy the rest of your day relaxing!

Day 2 Mooney and Beaver Falls (~8 miles)

The two other major waterfalls in Havasupai are Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls, which are best enjoyed on the same day. It’s best to get an early start to your day as the descent to Mooney Falls can get quite crowded and it’s a treacherous climb down. The distance to Mooney Falls varies significantly based upon where your camp is located within the campground. If you are close to the front of the campground it is almost a mile away. The campground extends right up to the top of Mooney Falls so it can also be as short as a couple hundred feet. My campsite was closer to the front as I preferred to be closer to the spring so I didn’t have to tote water back and forth. The route to Mooney Falls through the campground is straightforward. Just walk in the opposite direction of Havasu Falls and you’ll find your way.

• Important Info: I would recommend wearing hiking boots for the climb down to Mooney Falls as it is very steep and slippery. Bring along some water shoes (Chaco’s, etc.) in your day pack as there are 3 separate water crossings on the way to Beaver Falls, which are unavoidable. Be sure to carry plenty of water or bring a filter to purify the water from Havasu Creek.

Starting from the top of Mooney Falls you will begin your descent on some steep but dry terrain. The path is not very well marked and there are several small trails that lead to different viewpoints. Keep working your way downward and you will know you’re on the right path when you encounter a small tunnel with carved steps leading down. If you didn’t start early (or sometimes even if you did) there will likely be a queue of hikers backed up to this point. After going through the tunnel you’ll reach a small exposed landing with a chain railing that overlooks the Mooney Falls basin. On the other end of this landing you will enter another tunnel which will take you to the top of the climb down to Mooney Falls. There will be a large pile of wet gloves that are available to be used, however, I don’t think they’re necessary (and they’re also soaking wet). From the top it can look pretty intimidating but the climb down is not too bad, just take your time and keep 3 points of contact at all times.

The climb down essentially consists of several metal chains bolted to the rock with ‘footholds’ either carved into the rock or naturally occurring. If there’s a queue of people making the descent the best thing you can do is make sure you’re in a stable and secure position while you’re waiting for the line to start moving again. During the descent you will be getting hit with a lot of mist from the falls, which makes for a fun and more challenging climb down. As you’re slowly making your way down the cliff be sure to take in the views of Mooney Falls. The final section of the climb down is on two wooden ladders which lead to the base of the cliff. Use caution on the ladders as the wood will be even slicker than the rocks.

Once at the base of the cliff you’re greeted by an abundance of ferns and moss growing off the canyon walls-courtesy of the continual dampness of the basin created by the blowing mist. There is a small island just across from the final ladder that is a great place to take in the falls, complete with a picnic table to place your bag to prevent it from getting soaked. After getting your fill of Mooney Falls, cross back across the creek and follow the trail at the base of the cliff to start your journey to Beaver Falls.

The hike from Mooney Falls to Beaver Falls is approximately 3 miles each way. After ~0.25 miles you will come across your first creek crossing. The water at the crossing is about 2.5 feet deep and easy to wade across. There’s a second creek crossing not too far from the first so its a good idea to keep your Chaco’s/water shoes on until you make it past the second crossing. Around the 2 mile mark you will come across a small wooden bridge across a small ravine and shortly after arrive at what looks to be a miniature version of Beaver Falls. At the 2.5 mile mark you will come across a short section that requires a bit of scrambling that takes you up high above the creek below. You will continue on this cliff-side trail for a short distance before descending back down to the creek. Next you will encounter the final creek crossing at approximately 2.8 miles. This creek crossing is much deeper than the previous two and can be almost waist deep depending on your height and the flow of the creek.

Just after crossing the creek you will come across a metal ladder that is attached to the cliffs. Climbing the ladder and doing some light scrambling will once again take you high above the creek below. After walking along the ridge for a short distance you will find a wooden ladder that marks the descent towards Beaver Falls. Following along the trail you will next come across a picnic table perched above the falls. On the other side of the picnic table there is a haphazard “ladder” that takes you down to the base of the falls. This ladder is essentially two logs/branches loosely fashioned together and is relatively difficult to get down if you’re not careful. The drop down is less than 5 feet so there is not much concern for significant injury, but precautions should be taken. Once at the falls there are several different cascading pools to explore. The hike back to the campground follows the same route which requires making the climb back up from Mooney Falls.

• Important Info: Just before the descent to Beaver Falls you will find a small sign guiding you in the direction of the confluence of Havasu Creek with the Colorado River. The trail to the confluence is relatively long and not particularly well traveled. If attempting to make it to the confluence it’s important to start your hike as early as possible. On the sign there is a warning stating do not attempt to reach the confluence if it is after 10am.

Day 3 Rest and Recover (varies)

Day 3 is best used as a rest and recovery day and to relax near one of the falls closer to the campground. The hike out of the canyon is much more strenuous than the hike in and it’s a good idea to not overexert yourself the day before. It’s recommended to have the vast majority of your gear packed up and ready to go the night before departing as you will need a very early start the next day.

Day 4 Havasupai Trailhead (~10 miles)

It is VERY important to start your hike back to the trailhead early in the morning, particularly in the warmer months. Most backpackers carrying their own gear depart the campground well before sunrise to avoid the heat and lack of shade. It’s also very important to carry enough water as there is none available on the trail past the village. I planned to start my hike out at ~5:30am but actually departed around 4:45am after I saw a few groups come past my campsite starting their hike out. This resulted in hiking by headlamp in the dark for about 2.5 hours. If leaving before sunrise be sure to have enough battery power for your headlamp. The hike back to the trailhead follows the same route as the hike into the campground.

Best Time to Go:

Permits are available from February 1st to November 30th. Some dates are better than others depending on what your priorities are. If you’re wanting to swim and relax in the water, it’s best to choose dates from June-September. The water in the canyon stays very cool year round due to the steep canyon walls which keeps the falls in the shade for several hours of the day. The drawback for the warmer months is of course the warmer temperatures for hiking. The hike out of the canyon can be extremely hot in the summer months.

Good to Know:

Permits

As previously mentioned, permits are required to backpack to Havasu Falls. Permits sell out extremely fast for the entire year. For the 2024 season, the Havasupai Tribe has introduced a Presale Reservation System, in addition to the public sale, which allows hikers to select 3 desired start dates, as well as a desired month as an option in the event the desired start dates are unavailable. The presale opens on January 5, 2024 at 8am Arizona time (10am EST) and closes on January 18, 2024 at 5pm Arizona time (7pm EST). Notifications for the presale will be sent out no later than January 26, 2024. More information regarding the presale can be found on the Havasupai Reservation Website.

The public sale for permits begins on February 1, 2024 at 8am Arizona time (10am EST). It is highly recommended to register on the site in advance of the permits being released, with all information such as payment and Potential Alternate Trip Leaders (PATL) being filled out in advance. By registering in advance you will increase your odds of getting specific dates by being able to login immediately once the sale begins.

The costs for permits for the 2024 season have increased to $455/person, which enables you to camp for 3 nights. The cost of permits typically increase each year. I purchased my permit in 2020 for $395, and due to the COVID pandemic my start date was delayed for 3 years.

Water

There is no water available along the trail until you reach Supai Village so it’s important to carry enough water, especially for the hike back out. As a reference, take note of the amount of water you consume on the hike down and then double that number. I carried 4L of water on the hike down and drank half of that, so on the hike out I carried 4L again. At the end of the hike back to the trailhead I had ~1L of water left, which would have provided a buffer had I gotten delayed or the hike took longer than anticipated.

• It’s also a good idea to leave some water in your car for once you have completed the hike. The nearest convenience store is over an hour away.

Water is available at the campground near the entrance at a spring called Fern Spring. The water from the spring doesn’t require filtration and is safe to drink as is. This is the only source of water in the entire campground, other than filtering the water from Havasu Creek. The walk to the spring can be relatively far depending on where you choose to set up camp. It’s a good idea to strategically plan your water fill-ups so that you aren’t constantly walking back and forth. There are also no water sources available along the trails to Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls so it’s important to carry enough water for these hikes, or bring a filtration system to take water directly from the creek.

• Many campers had large collapsible water containers that they used when in larger groups. At the picnic table at the entrance of the campground there is usually an abundance of supplies that people have left behind, including large water containers.

Leftover Gear & Supplies

At the aforementioned picnic table there is all kinds of gear/food/trash leftover by lazy people who decide they don’t want to pack out all of the gear they brought (you really needed that collapsible shower tent?) or think it’s not their job to pack out their trash. Don’t be one of these people. Pack it in, pack it out.

Hazards

Heat

The hike into and out of the canyon can be extremely hot in the summer. There is limited shade and no water available on the trail. Most hikers depart very early in the morning and hike by headlamp to avoid the heat of the day.

Water

There is no water along the trail. Be sure to carry plenty of water. The spring in the campground is safe to drink without filtering but any other water should be purified in advance of consuming.

Flash Flooding

The summer monsoon rains bring the possibility of flash flooding. Check the weather reports in advance and familiarize yourself with the high ground areas marked in the campground. A tell-tale sign of an impending flash flood is the water turning brown.

Campsites

There are numerous campsites scattered throughout the campground with many being directly next to the creek. The more popular sites are snatched up quickly. The benefit of the reservation system is that there are campers leaving early every morning so new sites will become available each day in the event you’re less than thrilled about what is available on they day you arrive.

Phone reception/internet

Phone reception is spotty at best in the canyon. I found that I had good reception about half a mile away from the campground on the way to Navajo Falls which allowed me to check in with family to let them know I had made it to the campground.